Wild Man’s Altar
THE HUNTING OF THE EARL OF RONE
Folklore knowledge is passed down through word of mouth and actions from generation to generation, and customs are inevitably built upon. The chronological base of Coombe Martin’s ‘Hunting of the Earl of Rone’ festival is the Hobby Horse, the Fool and a fugitive living in the forest.
The Earl of Rone, The Hobby Horse and Fool © Martin Urch
Hobby Horse
The hobby horse originates in pagan traditions, where animal disguises were commonly used in rituals focused on fertility and harvest celebrations. In these practices, men would wear the skins of sacrificial animals during performances. The hobby horse held particular sexual significance, symbolising a ritualised promise of fertility and renewal, embodying vitality and life force.
Fool
The concept of the fool originated in early medieval practices and evolved from a sacred trickster figure symbolising chaos and fertility. These early rituals were influenced by pagan traditions and likely the ancient Roman festival dedicated to Saturn, the god of agriculture and renewal. Saturnalia featured a “King of Saturnalia,” who resembled a jester or fool guiding the revelry and festivities.
Wild Man
Wuduwāsa is an Old English term that translates to “wild man of the woods,” originating from the Anglo-Saxon language. It refers to an uncivilised, human-like entity that resides in the forest, often at the fringes of civilisation. In medieval tales, heroic figures frequently confront and defeat characters resembling the wuduwāsa, highlighting the conflict between civilisation and the untamed natural world.
Earl of Rone
Our central character may have origins linked to a pagan figure. However, the narrative of the Earl of Rone begins in the early 17th century with the capture of Hugh O’Neill, known as the Earl of Tyrone. O’Neill was a prominent leader during the Nine Years’ War, a conflict fought against English rule in Ireland. During this war, conscripts from North Devon actively fought against him, and following O’Neill’s rebellion in 1603, their families commemorated England’s victory over Tyrone.
Drummers lead the Earl of Rone procession © Martin Urch
According to an unverified legend, after fleeing Ireland in 1607, O’Neill was shipwrecked near Combe Martin. He reportedly sought refuge in Lady’s Wood, surviving on ships’ biscuits until his capture by soldiers dispatched from Barnstaple. The residents of Combe Martin are said to have held an annual commemoration of his capture, which continued until 1837. A bylaw eventually abolished this event due to concerns over its licentiousness and excessive drinking. Notably, during the 1837 celebration, an incident occurred in which the Mayor’s son, reportedly intoxicated, fell from the steps of Lynton Cottage on High Street and tragically broke his neck.
Fusion
The Coombe Martin Ascensiontide festival features the pagan figures of the Hobby Horse and the Fool, alongside the historical figure Hugh O’Neill. The earliest known account of this festival was published in the mid-19th century. In 1863, Reverend George Tugwell described the tradition known as “The Hunting of the Earl of Rone” in his book “The North Devon Scenery.” This account portrays Hugh O’Neill, the Earl of Tyrone, as a grotesquely masked individual dressed in a padded smock, notably adorned with a string of ship’s biscuits around his neck.
Coombe Martin
Coombe Martin Beach metamorphic rock formations © Martin Urch
Embarking on a journey to the enchanting village of Coombe Martin is no ordinary experience. It includes a driving joy along a 6-mile narrow, winding road descending into a breathtaking valley’s depths. This scenic route builds anticipation as you approach a hidden gem of metamorphic rock formations with faults and folds, where a close-knit community brimming with history awaits. Each year, the village comes alive with an annual festival that pulsates with vibrant folklore, strengthening the bonds among its residents in a dazzling celebration of tradition. It’s an adventure that promises to ignite your spirit and captivate you.
The Hunting of the Earl of Rone festival is celebrated over four days during the Spring Bank Holiday weekend, maintaining a festive atmosphere reminiscent of the earlier tradition. Local pubs play a significant role, serving as hubs of sustenance for participants. The Coombe Martin custom was revived in 1974, and the closing day closely mirrors Revd Tugwell’s depiction of the ‘Hunting of the Earl of Rone,’ with a variety of characters, including a hobby horse, a fool, grenadier soldiers, and the Earl himself, showcasing a series of mock executions and resurrections.
Despite a wet Spring Bank Holiday Monday downpour, the air didn’t dampen my anticipation as I walked from the village to Lady’s Wood. It was the 26th of May, and at 5:45 PM, the atmosphere came alive with pulsating drumbeats that echoed along Wood Lane. Out of the shadows emerged a procession of soldiers vibrantly dressed as grenadiers, their uniforms gleaming in the dim light. I trailed behind them into the woods’ heart, anticipating the Earl’s capture.
Earl of Rone faced backwards on a donkey © Martin Urch
As we reached a clearing, the soldiers spread out into the foliage. Suddenly, a thunderous gunshot shattered the tranquillity, and chaos erupted! We all raced to the source of the sound, where the Earl was dramatically pulled from his hiding spot, instantly transforming into a captive figure to be frogmarched to Lynton Road, meeting the procession. The Earl wore a bold geometric red and black mask, a straw-padded smock, and a curious necklace of large sea biscuits tied to the legend of Hugh O’Neill. The spectacle escalated when he was hoisted onto a donkey—backwards, no less! Despite the Earl being portrayed by a young boy, the donkey bucked with a spirited defiance, sending soldiers forward to bring things under control!
Earl of Rone execution by firing squad © Martin Urch
The procession pulsed with the vibrant rhythm of pounding drums and the lively strains of accordions playing the Earl of Rone theme music. Dancers adorned in floral headdresses joyfully participated, embodying the spirit of celebration. When the music paused, the Earl was taken down from the donkey and stood before the soldiers’ firing squad, marking a decisive moment of sacrifice with a volley of gunfire. The drums rolled as the Earl fell to the ground, and the crowd erupted in cheers. Embracing the cycle of life and renewal, the Hobby Horse and Fool advanced, resuscitating him from the ground, heralding rebirth. Soldiers carefully placed the Earl back on the donkey, and the jubilant parade continued its journey. This act of dramatic death and renewal unfolded around ten times throughout the two-mile procession, with reverence shown as the music halted outside Lynton Cottage in memory of the Mayor’s son, honouring the past while celebrating the present.
Hobby Horse and Fool resurrect the fallen Earl © Martin Urch
During a significant event at the village green, the Earl improvised a brief running escape before being apprehended by soldiers, who rugby tackled him to the ground. Another cheer erupted, and the procession went to the Pack of Cards Inn, where they paused for an hour to enjoy beer and refreshments. After this intermission, the ensemble continued for the final danced procession towards the beach, synchronised with the 9 pm sunset. The beach segment erupted into a breathtaking Wickerman-style finale in pouring rain, delivering a thrilling and surreal spectacle for everyone present.
Beach dancing around the Hobby Horse © Martin Urch
High-energy dancers moved in a mesmerising circular formation around the Earl in the dusk light. Their choreography built anticipation for the climactic moments ahead — A final firing squad execution, followed by the last resuscitation from the whimsical Hobby Horse and Fool. As the grand event peaked, soldiers heroically dragged an effigy of the Earl away from the Hobby Horse into the waves, symbolically sacrificing the Earl and letting the ebb tide take him away. The imagery of the Earl drifting beneath the surf was a powerful end to the ceremony, leaving onlookers awestruck.
Earl of Rone Beach Firing Squad © Martin Urch
Conclusion
The Hunting of the Earl of Rone performance draws its participants wholly from the village of Coombe Martin, plus a select group of passionate folklore enthusiasts who took part in its early reconstructions. It’s essential to approach the Earl of Rone’s custom not as a tourist attraction or a conventional folk festival, but as a deeply rooted celebration of the village’s cultural heritage by the people of the village. Those familiar with the eerie charm of The League of Gentlemen’s fictional Royston Vasey might find echoes of insular village life while observing the procession. This unique lens of viewing the event as an outsider adds a layer of intensity and profound connection to this extraordinary occasion, making it a truly memorable experience.
The Earl of Rone is cast into the sea © Martin Urch
What next?
Get ready for an unforgettable experience at Penzance’s torchlit procession, the dazzling centrepiece of Golowan! This vibrant midsummer celebration bursts with energy and is steeped in ancient Cornish traditions that date back centuries. Imagine the enchanting glow of firelight dancing through the night, accompanied by lively music that bridges the past with the present. Immerse yourself in the magic of Penglaz, the Obby horse skull, as it embodies the spirit of midsummer folklore. Feel the thrill as the "teaser" interacts with the crowd, and let the rhythmic beats of the Golowan band and the captivating dancers sweep you away. This is more than a celebration; it’s a spectacular journey through Penzance’s Celtic and Cornish heritage that you won’t want to miss!
Martin Urch Photography owns the copyright to all writing and images.
